Bike: Hunter, a.k.a. Snaggletooth
The night was cold and fitful. I’d only had four hours restless sleep when the first end-to-enders arrived to start their journey. The Easter weekend is a popular start date as people get ten clear days run at the trip for the cost of only four days holiday. I must say this first bunch were overly cheery.
An hour later at 7:30 another couple turned up. Their support crew actually asked me “where are you going?”, before realising the stupidity of his own question and doing a facepalm.
“I can’t believe I just asked that.”
As they finished their obligatory photos in front of the sign I realise that I too had better make a start. So I rolled up my sleeping bag, mat and bivvy bag, packed, and took my photos.
Once the camera was away I uttered the now traditional phrase to start any long trip, courtesy of Tim Cahill and Garry Sowerby, thanks to their book Road Fever describing their record breaking drive the length of the Americas.
“Let’s see what this baby will do.”
Time of start, 8:20 am.
Things hadn’t yet warmed up and the run into Penzance was freezing. As well as the six riders who had already set off in front of me I counted two more in the car park, saw two bikes on the roof of a car heading for Lands End, and saw clean rider with panniers heading that way too. So at least a dozen LEJOGers setting off before 10 o’clock by my reckoning. I wondered how many would make the trip by next Saturday, giving themselves Sunday to get back home. John O’Groats promised to be busy!
I stopped at the Cornwall Cycle Centre in Penzance to try and meet up with Mike Mulroy, erstwhile organiser of Velocake, who’s Maglia Rosa I was rocking for the first few days of my trip. Unfortunately the shop was closed and I missed Mike. Fortunately the pastie shop was open so there was compensation. It did feel slightly wrong not then going surfing and suffering pastie and seawater burps as I had the crap kicked out of me by Cornish surf.
From here my path diverged from other end to enders as I made my way South, as South as you can get on the mainland to The Lizard. I’ve ridden an end to end before so I wanted to get some other extreme points this time. The windsock at RNAS Culdrose confirmed I had a headwind. What with hanging around in Penzance for Mike, and only running a singlespeed – though I will concede the knobblies were pumped up hard – it was lunchtime by the time I reached The Lizard.
However it would have been rude not to take tea and scones and jam at the Polpeor Cafe. So that’s what I did. I already had 35 miles under my belt, but being as South as South can be and with all riding to be undertaken now heading North I felt as if I was behind some imaginary schedule. My last end to end had finished in Okehampton on day one, a distance of 100 miles. I was well down on that.
After polishing off all the butter and jam I set off for the North coast, Newquay. The windsock at RNAS Culdrose confirmed that whilst I had partaken of tea the wind had changed direction and I was cycling into, yes, a headwind.
I passed through Redruth which I was glad to see was “World Capital of Cornish Tin Mining”. Well, that stopped those sleepless nights, tossing and turning wondering where in the world might be capital of Cornish tin mining. At least I knew now it wasn’t somewhere like Coober Pedy.
At 4:51 pm precisely, and I know this because I checked my watch, I passed a sign on the A3075 for Healeys Cornish Cider, sorry, Cyder, Farm. Home of Pear Rattler. I was just rueing the fact they’d only be nine minutes from closing when I passed another sign saying “open until 6pm”. I promptly did the cycling equivalent of the ShakeAway walk* and headed towards the farm. Bless ‘em they even fetched me a cold one out of the fridge.
From there it was but a few miles to Newquay for the first of two Cornish traditions.
Firstly there is “tattoo sleeves” at Fistral Beach for an appraisal of the surf conditions. Named for the advert for some small Peugeot or other. The tide was in and it was as flat as the proverbial witches tit. All in all, disappointing.
Secondly there is the “bloke in a dress run”. This is named for our first weekend here and the man dressed as one of the Pythons pepperpot ladies getting gradually more and more hammered all weekend with his solitary mate. It is amazing how many stag does think that getting the groom to put on a dress is in some way original. Unlike tattoo sleeves this tradition delivered. On the main drag I saw not one, but two blokes in dresses. One in a sailor suit with slightly too short skirt revealing fat, pale, thick, but bandy legs. This one even had people less familiar with Newquay following him and taking pictures. The second was trying to look cool and David Beckhamesque in a sari. He almost carried it off. But not quite.
The worst thing about being in familiar territory is knowing the roads. I had thought of going up the coast road to Padstow via King Surf, maybe even stopping to catch some waves with them. It was too late in the day to meet them now. If I went to see them tomorrow the trip would be well behind my imaginary, yet self-imposed, target of 100 miles per day. And finally I knew how hilly that coast road gets. Very, er, coastal, with lots of descents and corresponding ascents.
So instead I left Newquay out on the A39, the Atlantic Coast Highway, which would get me through Cornwall and Devon. I settled into a nice rhythm. Dusk fell, and I decided I needed to get past the horrible section of the A39 between Camelford and Wadebridge. It’s a narrow, damp feeling valley, even on a Cornish summer day. First time on the trip riding at night and Cornish drivers were really good. Running two rear lights, one at high level on the back of the helmet helped. I explored some side roads looking for a suitable bivvy spot. Despite scratching the backs of my calves – scratches that are still there BTW – I didn’t find anywhere suitable.
Then just outside Camelford itself I spotted an open gate. I checked that the field didn’t contain livestok, wasn’t under plough or crop, then made my way up the headland far enough to be out of sight from the road and settled down. A quick check in with loved ones to let them know I had stopped and was safe and very quickly off to sleep.
Distance today: 103.87 miles, Lands End – The Lizard – Camelford
Distance so far: 118.76 miles
* The immediate change in direction of someone realising that there is a ShakeAway milkshake outlet in the vicinity. The nearest thing is Mexican Buzz Lightyear dancing during the credits of toy Story 2.


















